Luxury Kashmir: heritage houseboat and Gulmarg resort

Day 1: Arrive in Srinagar

Srinagar

• Shikara ride on Dal Lake · 2 h. Hourly rates per boat are posted at the ghats on Boulevard Road; agree the route (Char Chinari, the floating gardens, Nehru Park) before you set off. Sunset is the classic time.
• Hazratbal shrine and the Nigeen shore · 1.5 h. The white marble shrine on the lake's north shore; remove shoes, dress modestly, and note that women may enter only part of it.

Local tip: Hourly rates per boat are posted at the ghats on Boulevard Road; agree the route (Char Chinari, the floating gardens, Nehru Park) before you set off. Sunset is the classic time.

Open day 1 route in Google Maps

Day 2: Explore Srinagar

Srinagar

• Shalimar, Nishat and Chashme Shahi gardens · 4 h. Terraced 17th-century Mughal gardens along the lake's east shore, each with a small entry fee. Add Pari Mahal above Chashme Shahi for the view over Dal.

Local tip: Terraced 17th-century Mughal gardens along the lake's east shore, each with a small entry fee. Add Pari Mahal above Chashme Shahi for the view over Dal.

Open day 2 route in Google Maps

Day 3: Explore Srinagar

Srinagar

• Craft workshops: papier-mache, pashmina and carpets · 2.5 h. Ask to see the work being done before buying. Genuine pashmina comes with a GI label; shahtoosh is illegal, and very cheap pashmina is usually blended.
• Old city walk: Jamia Masjid and Khanqah-e-Moula · 3 h. The wooden Khanqah-e-Moula on the Jhelum and the great Jamia Masjid courtyard are the highlights; a local guide helps in the lanes. Dress modestly, women cover their heads, and avoid Friday prayer times.

Local tip: Ask to see the work being done before buying. Genuine pashmina comes with a GI label; shahtoosh is illegal, and very cheap pashmina is usually blended.

Open day 3 route in Google Maps

Day 4: Srinagar → Gulmarg

Gulmarg · Srinagar to Gulmarg, Car ~1.5–2h

• Gulmarg Gondola to Kongdoori and Apharwat · 4 h. Book online on the official cable car site only, days ahead in season. Phase 1 to Kongdoori (about 3,050 m) is the family ride; Phase 2 to Apharwat (about 3,950 m) has snow most of the year but often shuts in wind. Go early.

Local tip: Book online on the official cable car site only, days ahead in season. Phase 1 to Kongdoori (about 3,050 m) is the family ride; Phase 2 to Apharwat (about 3,950 m) has snow most of the year but often shuts in wind. Go early.

Open day 4 route in Google Maps

Day 5: Explore Gulmarg

Gulmarg

• Sledge rides and snow play · 2 h. Sledge pullers and boot-and-coat rentals have official rate cards; ask to see them before agreeing a price.
• Meadow walk: golf course, St Mary's Church and the Maharani temple · 2 h. A loop of the bowl-shaped meadow past one of the world's highest golf courses, the stone church and the hilltop temple.

Local tip: Sledge pullers and boot-and-coat rentals have official rate cards; ask to see them before agreeing a price.

Open day 5 route in Google Maps

Day 6: Explore Gulmarg

Gulmarg

• Drung waterfall · 2 h. A short drive from Tangmarg; the waterfall freezes solid in mid-winter, which is when most people come to see it.

Local tip: A short drive from Tangmarg; the waterfall freezes solid in mid-winter, which is when most people come to see it.

Open day 6 route in Google Maps

Day 7: Depart from Gulmarg

Gulmarg

Keep a buffer before your flight; check-out is usually noon.