Kashmir honeymoon: houseboat, snow and river

Day 1: Arrive in Srinagar

Srinagar

• Shikara ride on Dal Lake · 2 h. Hourly rates per boat are posted at the ghats on Boulevard Road; agree the route (Char Chinari, the floating gardens, Nehru Park) before you set off. Sunset is the classic time.
• Hazratbal shrine and the Nigeen shore · 1.5 h. The white marble shrine on the lake's north shore; remove shoes, dress modestly, and note that women may enter only part of it.

Local tip: Hourly rates per boat are posted at the ghats on Boulevard Road; agree the route (Char Chinari, the floating gardens, Nehru Park) before you set off. Sunset is the classic time.

Open day 1 route in Google Maps

Day 2: Explore Srinagar

Srinagar

• Shalimar, Nishat and Chashme Shahi gardens · 4 h. Terraced 17th-century Mughal gardens along the lake's east shore, each with a small entry fee. Add Pari Mahal above Chashme Shahi for the view over Dal.

Local tip: Terraced 17th-century Mughal gardens along the lake's east shore, each with a small entry fee. Add Pari Mahal above Chashme Shahi for the view over Dal.

Open day 2 route in Google Maps

Day 3: Srinagar → Gulmarg

Gulmarg · Srinagar to Gulmarg, Car ~1.5–2h

• Gulmarg Gondola to Kongdoori and Apharwat · 4 h. Book online on the official cable car site only, days ahead in season. Phase 1 to Kongdoori (about 3,050 m) is the family ride; Phase 2 to Apharwat (about 3,950 m) has snow most of the year but often shuts in wind. Go early.

Local tip: Book online on the official cable car site only, days ahead in season. Phase 1 to Kongdoori (about 3,050 m) is the family ride; Phase 2 to Apharwat (about 3,950 m) has snow most of the year but often shuts in wind. Go early.

Open day 3 route in Google Maps

Day 4: Explore Gulmarg

Gulmarg

• Sledge rides and snow play · 2 h. Sledge pullers and boot-and-coat rentals have official rate cards; ask to see them before agreeing a price.
• Meadow walk: golf course, St Mary's Church and the Maharani temple · 2 h. A loop of the bowl-shaped meadow past one of the world's highest golf courses, the stone church and the hilltop temple.

Local tip: Sledge pullers and boot-and-coat rentals have official rate cards; ask to see them before agreeing a price.

Open day 4 route in Google Maps

Day 5: Gulmarg → Pahalgam

Pahalgam · Gulmarg to Pahalgam, Car ~4h via Srinagar

• Betaab valley · 2.5 h. A riverside park in a green bowl named after the film shot here; combine it with Chandanwari in one union-taxi trip.

Local tip: A riverside park in a green bowl named after the film shot here; combine it with Chandanwari in one union-taxi trip.

Open day 5 route in Google Maps

Day 6: Explore Pahalgam

Pahalgam

• Aru valley · 3.5 h. A 12 km union-taxi ride up the Lidder to open meadows and a small village; base for longer treks with a guide.
• Rafting on the Lidder · 2 h. Mostly grade II–III stretches near Yannar from about May to August; operators provide helmets and jackets — insist on them.

Local tip: A 12 km union-taxi ride up the Lidder to open meadows and a small village; base for longer treks with a guide.

Open day 6 route in Google Maps

Day 7: Depart from Pahalgam

Pahalgam

Keep a buffer before your flight; check-out is usually noon.