Autumn in Kashmir: chinars and saffron

Day 1: Arrive in Srinagar

Srinagar

• Shikara ride on Dal Lake · 2 h. Hourly rates per boat are posted at the ghats on Boulevard Road; agree the route (Char Chinari, the floating gardens, Nehru Park) before you set off. Sunset is the classic time.
• Hazratbal shrine and the Nigeen shore · 1.5 h. The white marble shrine on the lake's north shore; remove shoes, dress modestly, and note that women may enter only part of it.

Local tip: Hourly rates per boat are posted at the ghats on Boulevard Road; agree the route (Char Chinari, the floating gardens, Nehru Park) before you set off. Sunset is the classic time.

Open day 1 route in Google Maps

Day 2: Explore Srinagar

Srinagar

• Shalimar, Nishat and Chashme Shahi gardens · 4 h. Terraced 17th-century Mughal gardens along the lake's east shore, each with a small entry fee. Add Pari Mahal above Chashme Shahi for the view over Dal.

Local tip: Terraced 17th-century Mughal gardens along the lake's east shore, each with a small entry fee. Add Pari Mahal above Chashme Shahi for the view over Dal.

Open day 2 route in Google Maps

Day 3: Explore Srinagar

Srinagar

• Old city walk: Jamia Masjid and Khanqah-e-Moula · 3 h. The wooden Khanqah-e-Moula on the Jhelum and the great Jamia Masjid courtyard are the highlights; a local guide helps in the lanes. Dress modestly, women cover their heads, and avoid Friday prayer times.
• Wazwan dinner · 2 h. The Kashmiri multi-course feast of rista, rogan josh and gushtaba is cooked by wazas; restaurants serve smaller tramis (shared platters) for two to four.

Local tip: The wooden Khanqah-e-Moula on the Jhelum and the great Jamia Masjid courtyard are the highlights; a local guide helps in the lanes. Dress modestly, women cover their heads, and avoid Friday prayer times.

Open day 3 route in Google Maps

Day 4: Srinagar → Pahalgam

Pahalgam · Srinagar to Pahalgam, Car ~2.5–3h

• Aru valley · 3.5 h. A 12 km union-taxi ride up the Lidder to open meadows and a small village; base for longer treks with a guide.

Local tip: A 12 km union-taxi ride up the Lidder to open meadows and a small village; base for longer treks with a guide.

Open day 4 route in Google Maps

Day 5: Explore Pahalgam

Pahalgam

• Betaab valley · 2.5 h. A riverside park in a green bowl named after the film shot here; combine it with Chandanwari in one union-taxi trip.
• Chandanwari snow point · 3 h. A snow bridge often lasts into early summer. Reserved for pilgrims during the Amarnath Yatra; check access locally.

Local tip: A riverside park in a green bowl named after the film shot here; combine it with Chandanwari in one union-taxi trip.

Open day 5 route in Google Maps

Day 6: Depart from Pahalgam

Pahalgam

• Rafting on the Lidder · 2 h. Mostly grade II–III stretches near Yannar from about May to August; operators provide helmets and jackets — insist on them.

Local tip: Mostly grade II–III stretches near Yannar from about May to August; operators provide helmets and jackets — insist on them.

Keep a buffer before your flight; check-out is usually noon.

Open day 6 route in Google Maps