Kochi, the backwaters and Varkala cliffs
8 days, 7 nights: Kochi (Fort Kochi) (2N), Alleppey (Alappuzha) (2N), Varkala (3N). Best time to go: Nov–Mar.
Day 1: Arrive in Kochi (Fort Kochi)
Kochi (Fort Kochi)
- Kathakali performance with make-up session · 2 h. Fort Kochi's cultural centres run a nightly shortened show with an explanation of the gestures; arrive an hour early to watch the elaborate make-up being applied.
- Hill Palace Museum, Tripunithura · 2 h. The former Cochin royal palace with crowns, palanquins and a deer park; closed on Mondays.
Local tip: Fort Kochi's cultural centres run a nightly shortened show with an explanation of the gestures; arrive an hour early to watch the elaborate make-up being applied.
Day 2: Explore Kochi (Fort Kochi)
Kochi (Fort Kochi)
- Fort Kochi heritage walk: fishing nets, St Francis Church and Santa Cruz Basilica · 2.5 h. Start at the Chinese fishing nets early, when fishermen haul them in; St Francis Church is where Vasco da Gama was first buried. Fishmongers by the nets will cook your pick at nearby stalls.
- Mattancherry Palace, Jew Town and the Paradesi Synagogue · 2.5 h. The palace has some of Kerala's finest Ramayana murals (closed Fridays); the synagogue closes on Fridays, Saturdays and Jewish holidays. Jew Town's spice warehouses and antique shops fill the lanes between.
Local tip: Start at the Chinese fishing nets early, when fishermen haul them in; St Francis Church is where Vasco da Gama was first buried. Fishmongers by the nets will cook your pick at nearby stalls.
Day 3: Kochi (Fort Kochi) → Alleppey (Alappuzha)
Alleppey (Alappuzha) · Kochi (Fort Kochi) to Alleppey (Alappuzha), Private car ~1.5h (train ~1.25h)
- Country-canoe tour of the narrow canals · 3 h. Paddled or small motor canoes slip into village canals around Kainakary with breakfast or lunch at a home; quieter than a houseboat.
- Toddy shop lunch (karimeen and kappa) · 1.5 h. Kerala's licensed toddy shops serve some of the spiciest local food; the better ones have family rooms.
Local tip: Paddled or small motor canoes slip into village canals around Kainakary with breakfast or lunch at a home; quieter than a houseboat.
Day 4: Overnight houseboat cruise on the backwaters
Alleppey (Alappuzha)
- Overnight houseboat cruise on the backwaters · Full day. Boarding is around noon and check-out around 9am; boats cruise until about 5:30pm, then moor. Meals by the onboard cook are included. Check the licence, the route (Kuttanad paddy canals beat the crowded main channel) and AC hours before paying.
Local tip: Boarding is around noon and check-out around 9am; boats cruise until about 5:30pm, then moor. Meals by the onboard cook are included. Check the licence, the route (Kuttanad paddy canals beat the crowded main channel) and AC hours before paying.
Day 5: Alleppey (Alappuzha) → Varkala
Varkala · Alleppey (Alappuzha) to Varkala, Private car ~2.5–3h (train ~2h)
- North Cliff walk and sunset · 2 h. Cafés line the cliff path above the beach; stairs lead down to the sand. Watch the edge in the dark.
- Cliff-top yoga class · 1.5 h
Local tip: Cafés line the cliff path above the beach; stairs lead down to the sand. Watch the edge in the dark.
Day 6: Explore Varkala
Varkala
- Kappil lake and beach with a canoe ride · 2.5 h. Where the backwater meets the sea 8 km north of the cliff; quiet and good at sunset.
- Ponnumthuruthu (Golden Island) boat trip · 2 h
Local tip: Where the backwater meets the sea 8 km north of the cliff; quiet and good at sunset.
Day 7: Explore Varkala
Varkala
- Surf lesson at Varkala · 2 h. Beginner lessons run Oct–Apr; mornings are cleaner before the wind picks up.
- Papanasam beach and Janardanaswamy temple · 2 h. Hindu families perform rites for ancestors on the beach in the morning; give them space. The temple's inner sanctum is for Hindus only.
- Ayurvedic massage · 1.5 h. Pick a centre with a resident doctor and separate therapists for men and women.
Local tip: Beginner lessons run Oct–Apr; mornings are cleaner before the wind picks up.
Day 8: Depart from Varkala
Varkala
Keep a buffer before your flight; check-out is usually noon.
Where to stay
- Kochi (Fort Kochi) (2 nights): Fort Kochi and Mattancherry heritage hotels. Restored Dutch and Portuguese-era bungalows with courtyards and pools.
- Alleppey (Alappuzha) (2 nights): Punnamada and Kuttanad backwater resorts. Cottages on the canals, with canoe trips from the jetty.
- Varkala (3 nights): North and South Cliff boutique hotels. Sea-view rooms and small pools on the cliff.