Monsoon Kerala: Kochi, a houseboat and Kumarakom

Day 1: Arrive in Kochi (Fort Kochi)

Kochi (Fort Kochi)

• Kathakali performance with make-up session · 2 h. Fort Kochi's cultural centres run a nightly shortened show with an explanation of the gestures; arrive an hour early to watch the elaborate make-up being applied.
• Hill Palace Museum, Tripunithura · 2 h. The former Cochin royal palace with crowns, palanquins and a deer park; closed on Mondays.

Local tip: Fort Kochi's cultural centres run a nightly shortened show with an explanation of the gestures; arrive an hour early to watch the elaborate make-up being applied.

Open day 1 route in Google Maps

Day 2: Explore Kochi (Fort Kochi)

Kochi (Fort Kochi)

• Fort Kochi heritage walk: fishing nets, St Francis Church and Santa Cruz Basilica · 2.5 h. Start at the Chinese fishing nets early, when fishermen haul them in; St Francis Church is where Vasco da Gama was first buried. Fishmongers by the nets will cook your pick at nearby stalls.
• Mattancherry Palace, Jew Town and the Paradesi Synagogue · 2.5 h. The palace has some of Kerala's finest Ramayana murals (closed Fridays); the synagogue closes on Fridays, Saturdays and Jewish holidays. Jew Town's spice warehouses and antique shops fill the lanes between.

Local tip: Start at the Chinese fishing nets early, when fishermen haul them in; St Francis Church is where Vasco da Gama was first buried. Fishmongers by the nets will cook your pick at nearby stalls.

Open day 2 route in Google Maps

Day 3: Kochi (Fort Kochi) → Alleppey (Alappuzha)

Alleppey (Alappuzha) · Kochi (Fort Kochi) to Alleppey (Alappuzha), Private car ~1.5h (train ~1.25h)

• Overnight houseboat cruise on the backwaters · Full day. Boarding is around noon and check-out around 9am; boats cruise until about 5:30pm, then moor. Meals by the onboard cook are included. Check the licence, the route (Kuttanad paddy canals beat the crowded main channel) and AC hours before paying.

Local tip: Boarding is around noon and check-out around 9am; boats cruise until about 5:30pm, then moor. Meals by the onboard cook are included. Check the licence, the route (Kuttanad paddy canals beat the crowded main channel) and AC hours before paying.

Open day 3 route in Google Maps

Day 4: Alleppey (Alappuzha) → Kumarakom

Kumarakom · Alleppey (Alappuzha) to Kumarakom, Private car ~1.25h

• Shikara or canoe ride through village canals · 2 h. Small canopied boats reach canals the big houseboats can't; agree the hourly rate first.
• Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary early walk · 2 h. Go at opening time; migratory birds peak Nov–Feb, with herons and cormorants nesting in the monsoon.

Local tip: Small canopied boats reach canals the big houseboats can't; agree the hourly rate first.

Open day 4 route in Google Maps

Day 5: Explore Kumarakom

Kumarakom

• Sunset motorboat on Vembanad Lake · 1.5 h
• Ayurvedic massage at a lakeside resort · 1.5 h. A single abhyanga massage is a taste; longer Ayurveda programmes start with a doctor's consultation.

Local tip: A single abhyanga massage is a taste; longer Ayurveda programmes start with a doctor's consultation.

Open day 5 route in Google Maps

Day 6: Depart from Kumarakom

Kumarakom

Keep a buffer before your flight; check-out is usually noon.